Painting and Decorating in SW20: Raynes Park, Wimbledon Chase and West Barnes
Practical guide to decorating Edwardian terraces and semis in SW20, covering exterior masonry, timber windows, interior preparation, and appropriate paint choices.
The Housing Stock of SW20
SW20 takes in Raynes Park, Wimbledon Chase, West Barnes, and the outer edges of New Malden. The area was developed primarily between 1900 and the late 1930s, producing a mixed housing stock that ranges from solid Edwardian terraces and semis built along the arterial roads — Burlington Road, Coombe Lane, Grand Drive — to the more eclectic interwar developments around the Raynes Park station area and the quieter residential streets to the south. There is relatively little Victorian housing in SW20 compared with its neighbour SW19; the dominant character is Edwardian and interwar, which has specific implications for how decorating work should be approached.
Edwardian and Interwar Terraces: Material Considerations
Edwardian terraces in SW20 are typically of cavity-less solid brick construction with lime-based mortars, though some of the slightly later stock from the 1910s and 1920s transitions toward harder Portland cement mortars. The practical consequence for external decoration is the same as elsewhere in south-west London: breathability in masonry coatings matters. Cement-based render was sometimes applied to these properties at various points through the twentieth century, often in poor condition. Cracked, delaminating, or hollow render should be cut back and replaced before painting. Trying to bridge failing render with a thick masonry coating will not hold; the substrate failure will cause the paint to fail with it.
Where render is sound, a high-build silicone-modified masonry paint or a quality breathable masonry coating will give the best results. Products such as Dulux Weathershield Smooth Masonry Paint or Johnstone's Stormshield are widely used and appropriate where render is of Portland cement composition. Where walls are unrendered or rendered in lime, a silicate or lime-wash based product is preferable.
Interwar properties in SW20 sometimes feature roughcast or pebbledash external finishes. These require specific primers before topcoating — a stabilising solution applied generously to bind any loose aggregate before a masonry paint is applied. Do not apply masonry paint directly to dusty or friable pebbledash without stabilising first; adhesion will be poor and the coating will fail prematurely.
Timber Windows and External Joinery
SW20 properties retain a high proportion of original timber windows. Edwardian and interwar semis in this area often feature casement windows rather than the sliding sash common in Victorian stock, though many properties have both. Casement windows present different painting considerations to sashes: the beads and glazing putty need attention, and any failed putty sections must be replaced before painting. Cracked or missing glazing putty allows water to penetrate behind the glass, causing rot at the bottom of the frame. Linseed oil putty, properly primed once skinned, remains one of the most durable options for repointing glazing.
For external woodwork, an oil-based alkyd primer followed by undercoat and gloss produces a harder, more durable finish than water-based alternatives in exposed London conditions. Where properties have been converted to UPVC windows, the remaining external timber — soffits, bargeboards, fascias — should not be neglected. These elements are frequently left too long between painting cycles and are among the most common locations for concealed rot.
Interior Preparation in SW20 Properties
Most older properties in SW20 have been extended at the rear, and the junction between original masonry walls and modern block or timber-frame extensions is a frequent location for cracking as the two materials move differentially. Before decorating, these junctions should be raked out, filled with a flexible filler or fine surface filler appropriate to the depth of the crack, then sealed with a stabilising primer before painting. Hairline cracks in original plaster can be bridged with a fine surface filler or a textured finish coat; wider cracks or stepped cracking at corners should be investigated for structural cause before being cosmetically addressed.
Period properties in SW20 often retain original cornicing and picture rails. These should be cleaned, any loose sections re-adhered with bonding agent, and repainted carefully. Coving is commonly found in the reception rooms of Edwardian semis; where it has been painted many times over, careful cutting and feathering of paint edges prevents a heavy, institutionalised appearance.
Colour Choices for SW20 Properties
SW20 is not a conservation area in the way that parts of SW19 are, which gives homeowners more freedom with exterior colour choices. That said, the dominant streetscape of warm buff brick, red tile, and painted stucco accents lends itself to certain palettes. Soft sage greens, warm greys, and muted earthy tones sit well against the brick. For front doors, deep navies, forest greens, and aubergine shades have become increasingly common in the area. Little Greene's Juniper Ash, Farrow and Ball's Mizzle or Treron, and Dulux's Heritage range all offer colours sympathetic to the period character of the area.
For specialist advice on decorating an Edwardian or interwar property in SW20, contact us here. To get a price, request a free quote.